I'm trying to figure out if it's possible to make a balloon shade with this silhouette. I imagine it could be made as an opera shade, but if I'm not mistaken, the weight bar would have to be cut in half with each half angling down from the center lift line to the outer ones, one ring lower. Anybody have any feedback?
What if you had a straight weight bar at short point AND then angled weight bar or even the plastic ribs at angled line. I'm sure that could be said better! How do I create an ID, Dlbdrapery@mac.com
ReplyDeleteIf you simply angled the weight bars might not hold shape and move around o n lifting
Thanks, dlbdrapery, I did try this and other experiments but nothing worked well enough. We are going another route- and there will be pics of that coming up soon.......
ReplyDeleteTo create an ID- I'm so sorry, I wish I knew! I've had that problem when trying to comment on other peoples' blogs. If I figure it out, I'll let you know!
What type of rod are you using to hold up your roman shades in your workroom. I would love to have one of those. It kinda looks like a camera ipod.
ReplyDeleteIt's a "Workroom Valet" from Scot Robbins- Google it- once you have one you'll wonder how you managed without it ! I have 2 and would like another one.....
DeleteCan you recommend where the external weight bar should go on a Relaxed Roman with bottom trim? I usually put them in the bottom hem, but when raised, the hem raises to the inside and then the trim is hidden. Also, do you have a good supplier of the weight bars? I have found them very expensive to buy and ship. I am in NJ, so close to you. Sorry, can't figure out how to add a name to this post, but will work on it!!
ReplyDeleteI'm having trouble posting comments, too, today- testing:
ReplyDeleteAha I tried a different server, and apparently it's Firefox that's the problem- now using Safari.
ReplyDeleteOk, anonymous, now that I can post in comments again-
ReplyDeleteI just wrote a long reply only to see it disappear when I clicked on Publish!
For relaxed Romans, I add 24" to the finished length so there are extra folds when the shade is down. Start the bottom rings about 5" from the bottom. If the rings are spaced the standard 6" apart, the trim will show when you raise the shade.
Cut the weight bar with same size as the distance between the rings, and cover it with a tube of fabric. Tack it at the lowest operating ring. When you string the shade, tie that ring and all the extra rings together.
I'm not sure if you're a workroom or a home sewer? I get my weight bar in bulk from Rowley Co, but local drapery supply distributors carry it as well. Try Designer's Resource in Lodi NJ. Or see what you can find at Home Depot or Lowe's to use as a substitute for 3/8" rodding.
Not sure if you're the same anonymous as in the previous comments?
Hi, another question if you don't mind tell me this information...where do you get your ladder tape from? Do you go in person to Designer's Resource (they are only about 40 mins from me), or do you order online/over the phone? Thank you
ReplyDeleteHi Tracey- I suggest that you call Designer's Resource and ask them how to purchase. Sometimes I order over the phone and have things shipped, but I'm often in their area and stop by to pick up. So, I'm sorry you had so much trouble posting a comment- if you're using Firefox, try a different server instead. Or go to the "about me" button above, and send me an email. I'm supposed to go to Designer's Resource this afternoon, not sure if I'll go with the snow forecast!
ReplyDeleteHi there! Hope you made it out in the nasty weather! I plan a trip over there in the next few days. Am excited to just take a look around! Thanks for the information about the extra fabric/folds at the bottom of the shade. That's a good tip. Do you use the same weight bars on sheer fabrics? I am working with really sheer just now and am worried the weight will really pull at the fabric and damage it when the shade is constantly raised and lowered.
ReplyDeleteNope, didn't go yesterday, probably tomorrow.
DeleteYes for sheers I still use the same weight bar. Sheers are surprisingly tough, especially synthetics but even natural fibers. I've never had a problem. I like to line sheers shades with another sheer to give reinforcement and extra body- either voile or batiste.
Thanks again! I did risk it and am reassured by you. I also lined in another sheer and love the look. I am now trying the cord shroud tape for the first time and am going to check the Rowley informational videos as I am not sure how that works at the top. Maybe the tape is cut to the length of the shade, but shorter than the cord, so the cord can then be threaded through the lock mechanism or roller mechanism. As before, am very grateful for your words of wisdom!!
ReplyDeleteYes, the encased cord tapes need to be cut as long as the cord needs to be, then you fish out the cord, and cut off the excess tape. The tape should be only as long as needed to staple to the board. It does waste some of the tape. If you use the mesh tube shroud instead, you can buy it without the cord and then run the cord through yourself, but the time that would take (and the frustration level) outweighs the cost savings, in my opinion.
ReplyDeleteI hope your project turns out well!- let me know!
I'll be going to Designer's Resource on Thursday afternoon. Maybe I'll see you there :)
I would love to go today....but am swamped with sewing....maybe after the weekend! Thanks again.
ReplyDeleteAnother question...for 'regular' Romans using really sheer fabrics, do you still put the bar in the hem? I am worried it will pull the stitching as this fabric seems like it 'holes' easy around the stitching line, if tugged at and this lady wants to raise and lower the shades daily......maybe put an external bar at the same point as for a relaxed Roman? Have you done that before, or do you just risk it in the hem? I would love to meet you. I love your work, so next time you are heading to Designers' Resource, I will go at the same time!!
ReplyDeleteYes I usually put the weight bar in a pocket even with sheers, but occasionally I'll tack it externally. If I put it in a pocket, I first cover it with tubing so it looks better. And making it 6" longer and tying up one permanent fold will hide the pocket. It would be lovely to meet at DR one day!
ReplyDeleteThank you! Would you rather I send these messages via email? I realize I am hogging your blog with my silly questions!!
ReplyDeleteI do use the tubing. Either use basic lining, if it's hidden, or will now use fabric if it's external (following your advice). If I make it 6 inches longer and tie up that permanent fold, that would hide the lipped cord trim (chosen by the customer), that is stitched into the bottom hem. Would you stitch the trim in and then maybe add the extra 6 inches (plus seam allowance) and fold that under? That would then become the extra pocket? Are you sick of me yet?!!!
Ah! I just re-read your previous message...8 Dec at 9.34 am, and I think I am getting it...it takes a while to sink in!!! If I fold the extra fabric up and secure the extra bottom fold(s) with the rings, then the bottom hem (corded, banded or otherwise) will still show below the bottom of the bottom fold. And, so you make the pocket in one of those extra bottom folds, aligned with the bottom ring? Hope this makes sense.
ReplyDeleteDo you shape your hems on a Relaxed? I don't usually, but I see you get a lovely curved bottom and I cannot get the same effect.. I am setting the bar higher and my trim is showing now, but the bottom still seems to look straighter than the relaxed curves above it....really appreciate your tips....thank you.
ReplyDeleteNo, personally I don't shape the bottom of relaxed shades, but some workrooms do.
DeleteThe droop varies, depending on every design element- width, trim, weight bar placement, etc.
Thank you! I did get them to turn out nice and they curved nicely once I got them 'hung' so I could steam/dress them. Long day and night....was battling with the roller mechanisms with metal mounting unit that I got from Textol (first time use for me). Not totally sold on these. Think I will get them from Rowley next time and mount them onto wood. So far, I've only used the basic board top with screw eyes and cord lock. The roller style with beaded chain does lift very nicely though. Once these shades are installed today, I will be having a nice change on bedding and pillows!
ReplyDeleteSo glad your project turned out well, Tracey! I hope your installation goes well.
DeleteAre you a member of the CHFA Forum? If not, you should look into it. It's the most amazing resource for workroom professionals, and I don't know where I'd be without that community of peers. If you aren't, send me an email and I'll give you more information. I looked for your name there but didn't find you.
Hello there!
ReplyDeleteI am on their Email list, but didn't sign up and didn't do any courses...I just joined though for a trial period and will join permanently after that....thank you for the information.
Thank you again for your help.
I've never been for any courses, but the forum and publication are fantastic. Hope you get as much out of it as I have!
DeleteThank you! I joined. I also register with Merrill Landis, to take a look at their products, and also took a look at Tech Styles...I know you mentioned them in one of your blogs. I cannot see their products online, but will call them.
ReplyDeleteI have a question about the pleats in triple relaxed romans. How big(dimensions) is the pleat. I made a 60 inch wide single pleat which was 8 inches 2-4-2.I am a home sewer. But for the 92" window I don't know about the fullness? What do you recommend.?
ReplyDeleteHi Nancy-
ReplyDeleteI'd do 3 sections, with the same pleat sizes as the other- to keep the proportions the same.
Good luck!
Working that up now Thanks. love your work.
ReplyDeleteHi Deb, long time no contact! Got busy and am still trying to 'play' my new supplies (ladder tape and encased lift cord shroud tape)
ReplyDeleteForgot to ask...I can't work out how to secure the bottom three pleats together if I am using the encased lift cord shroud tape and only one ring and orb at the bottom. I have been knotting the bottom three rings together with the cord to give pleats at the bottom, even when the shade is lowered all the way down.
ReplyDeleteTracey, that's exactly what I do, too, with the rings for the bottom stationary folds. I either tie with cord or use Rowley's split rings. I run the lift cord just through the topmost ring, with an orb if it's a clutch system.
ReplyDeleteThank you! Do you prefer to hand stitch or do you put a few machine stitches through the tape? I looked at Rowley's instructions and on the newer style tape, they just put a few stitches through one side of the tape. I mostly stitch rings on by machine, but sometimes they need hand sewing, because the stitching is too visible on the right side, especially with plain fabrics. Also, when you use ladder tape, I think you said you use .9mm cord. What lift/locking mechanism do you use with the .9mm? I am sure I read that .9mm is not suitable for cord locks....I guess it slips through.
ReplyDeleteHi Tracey- For most shades I use ladder tape and sew rings on by hand. Sometimes I use Rowley's mesh tube shroud which I sew on by hand. And for hobbled shades I use Rowley's encased cord tape which I sew on by machine: one tack on each side of the tape to the rib pocket.
ReplyDeleteI usually use .9mm cord, except for shades with just 3 lift cords and a cord lock. I think the 1.4 holds better with fewer cords. More than 3 cords, the cord lock works well, and I use the .9.
Yes, I have always used the 1.4, even for 5 cords, but tried the .9m today and it slipped right through...would not lock. I should have changed the cord lock out, but assumed it was because the .9mm wasn't thick enough to make the cogs grip....will go back and change out the cord lock and try again. Thanks for your help, as always. It's always so time consuming trying things for the first time and always much easier to go back to our old tried and tested ways, but I do love the tapes you use. The shades look great on the back, as well as the front!!
ReplyDeleteMe again! When I check at Textol's website, it does say that .9mm cannot be used with cord locks. They work fine for you, right?
ReplyDeleteI have never used those cord locks- I use the 4-wire cord locks from Rowley. The only time .9 cord has not worked well with those is with very lightweight shades or shades with just 3 lift lines.
DeleteOh, ok...I just bought a huge supply of them..!! Am looking through the Rowley catalogue now. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteHi there. Question: Where did you get your long table weights you use to hold down your fabrics? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteRowley Company!
DeleteHi Deb,
ReplyDeleteI've been reading your blog everyday for about 10 days, scouring thru page by page. Now I'm trying to find the page that had about 25 different relaxed shades all with different "sagging" factors on the bottom. I can't remember the tag line. Any way you could remember that one and put a link to it here?
Hi Laura! I think you were looking at the "gallery if London shades" which is 2 "buttons" to the left of this "need help" button at the top. It's not an actual post.
DeleteSo glad you're enjoying the blog!
I really need to update those "gallery" pages with some more recent work!
What are J-hooks and where can I purchase them.
ReplyDeleteThank you.
Hmmm I don't know!
ReplyDeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteThanks for all your great ideas and tips on this blog. I am teaching myself how to make a roman shade for my dining room...It is 105" wide and 65 inches long. I have planned for 5 ribs and a bottom bar. The material is a sheer linen. Do you think I need a clutch system or can I just thread the strings through a cord lock? It will usually be in the lowered position likely not raised very often.
Thanks for any suggestions!
jane
Hi Jayne-
DeleteYour shade will be best with a clutch if you'll be raising it often, but a cord lock is ok if not; you can use up to 10 lift lines if using a Rowley cord lock. Just be sure to make the shade safe by using a shroud such as ladder tape, and a cleat to secure the cord out of reach. Also Safe-T-Shade has new products for making shades compliant with the new safety standards. I recommend checking them out.
Are you a workroom?
Good luck with your project and let me know how it turns out!
Deb
no, I am not a work room, just making shades for my own house! I am going to try the cleat first and see how it goes. I made a small one for the door and it looks great, I am just nervous about the width of the one for the window. Thanks for the tips!
ReplyDeleteHi Deb,
ReplyDeleteMerlyn Corcoran referred me to your website. I needed some suggestions about a weight rod for a sheer unlined stationary relaxed roman. I was a member of the drapery forum for years and haven't done much the last couple years but did just join with the basic membership but for some reason have not been able to access the forum and no reply from Margie yet. Had emailed Merlyn and she sent me your website. Which by the way is awesome.
Anyway my question is how to hide the weight rod in an unlined sheer stationary relaxed shade. My designer insist she has seen it done but I am at a loss. The shade is about 41 inches wide so there is a significant droop. Below are briefly the way I constructed the sample. Could you give me any suggestions?
FW 41 inches
Finished Stationary Drop about 23 inches
Projection 1 1/4 inch
Double turned hems on sides and bottom hem
Rings starting near bottom on both sides about 1 1/2 inch in from sides and about 5 inches apart vertically
Using acrylic weight rod (which has not arrived yet so experimenting with wood dowel) which I tacked to the side hem about 5 inches from the bottom thinking it would be hidden.
With the amount of droop I have I just don't know if it is possible to hide the weight rod with the sheer fabric.
Would love any suggestions!
Best regards,
Amy
Amy, hi! I wish I had a solution for that situation, but, I don't! For relaxed shades, I put the weight bar in a fabric tube, and tack it with the rings that are tied up at the bottom. For a sheer shade I do the same thing and yes you can see it from the front through the sheer fabric. I wish I had an answer for you, so I will keep thinking about it and maybe I will have some new insight into relaed shades! I hope the acrylic weight bar is helpful. Where did you find that? Are you the same Amy I have corresponded with in the past?
DeleteHi Deb,
ReplyDeleteThanks for you input. At least I know I have exhausted my options and everything still points to the fact that you will probably see the weight rod. I am finishing them up this weekend so we will see.
I order acrylic baton used for pulling panels to try. I needed it longer so had United Supply ordered it from Forest Drapery Hardware because I needed it longer than the Kirsh baton. Little thicker than I would like but going to drill a small hole through it to attach at the site of the rings.
Don't think I have corresponded with you before. You might be thinking of Amy Burton who was a friend of mine when she had her workroom. Kind of lost contact with her since she doesn't have a workroom now that I know of and I haven't been doing as much either.
Thanks for your response and when my designer goes back and looks at the sheer relaxed shades where she swears the weight rod is hidden I will share the trick with you!
Thanks again and have a good weekend! Amy
Good luck, Amy! Let me know how this turns out. Maybe there IS a trick to it!
DeleteTry using theater tape weight in the hem of relaxed roman shades. Then use only a light weight spreader bar when needed to keep the shade from collapsing inward.
ReplyDeleteHello, I love reading your blog. Many of your posts have been a great help in my workroom. I am wondering what is your favorite method for roman shade valances. I have 3 projects coming up which means making 12 valances all about 18" long in varied widths. Do you put in rod pockets, rods and rings? or is there a simpler way to put these together. Thank you for your help. Kathy
ReplyDeleteThank you, Kathy! It means a lot to me.
DeleteWhen you say Roman shade valances, do you mean pleated like permanently pleated valances, like hobbled shades? Or do you mean shades that are tied up and just look like Roman shades that have been pulled up? Lately I have had no orders for the hobbled looking type. But I do have a lot of people who say they want a Roman shade valance and what they really mean is just something looks like a shade that's been pulled up. After going back-and-forth on this subject with a lot of my clients, my policy now is, I make a shade. It's just a shade just like I would make it if it were going up and down. I often tie up three or four rings at the bottom, then use a cord lock, so they can adjusted slightly. When I do that I only have a very short operating cord like 3 inches. This way seems to work out for everybody. I charge as if it were a Roman shade because that's what it is! – And I have a minimum square footage.
I hope I have understood your question and my answer helps somewhat! If not, get back to me and we'll talk about it more.
Thank you for the answer. yes, I was talking about a shade that looks like it is pulled up. I did make a couple of them today with 4 rod pockets and tied them together. I like your idea of a cord lock. I was hoping for a simpler method, but you are right - it is a shade. Thanks again.
DeleteHi! LOVE LOVE LOVE your blog and all the help and photos!
ReplyDeleteI've got a workroom in New Braunfels Texas and have a customer that wants relaxed roman shades, but with returns (using a 1 x 4, outside mount). What do you suggest I do for this? Just make a small flap (maybe 6") to add to the dust board, or actually move the rings in and make the finished width to include the returns? I am thinking that option will look weird, with the rings sewn nearly 5 inches in from each side (more like a london shade with tails at that point). Please help!
Thank you, Lisa LaChance
Hi Lisa- so glad you find the blog helpful! I love to hear that. re: your relaxed shades- yes, that's a dilemma. I've often made relaxed shades with returns, but I set the rings in just a big further than the width of the board- i.e. for your shades I'd set them in barely 4". There IS a droop, it's true. If you browse through relaxed shades on the blog, you'll see plenty of those. One alternative is, for the "extra" folds at the bottom, add rings to the very edge of the return and tie them up, so that would somewhat mitigate the droop. Something else I've never done but have seen is to run rings ALL the way the length of the shade right at the very edge of the return, treat them just as you would the other rows of rings and string them. That will keep the returns drawing up as you raise the shade. BUT I don't know if that's compatible with new safety practices. Or, make a return flap as you mentioned. Personally I don't mind the droop of returns on a relaxed shade as long as the rings are nearly all the way to the edge of the board.
ReplyDeleteI have less then 1 " to fit inside mount roman shade. Is cord lock my only option or there is a clutch system that fits into 1"? Please advise.
ReplyDeleteThank you,
Nina
Hi Nina-
DeleteI'm not positive, but I think the Dofix clutch might fit onto a 1" board. Also check out Textol's RBS- I don't know but it's worth inquiring. Rollease used to have a system called VersaRail that fit onto 1" but I'm not sure if that's still being offered. This is something I've been planning to research myself but haven't had a chance to yet!
Hi Deb,
ReplyDeleteThank you for an instant reply. Your work is awesome and I admire the noble effort to share your mastery.
I checked Textol - they don't have anything. But Dofix does have some interesting clutch that might fit my project, I'm waiting for their reply to get an access to their support.
I have another question: what is your favorite blackout lining for roman shades (French blackout sounds great but I don't think it is right for this project).
I'm so excited that I found a place where I can ask questions and get expert answers, thank you very much!
Thanks, Nina-
ReplyDeleteBlackout: I like to use Bella Notte Silky blackout. I also like their Duette- Silky plus a bonded poly flannel.
I hope Dofix has a clutch that will fit your needs!
Deb
How do you determine which clutch system to use? Which do you use most often and where do you purchase them?
ReplyDeleteThank you,
Kathy
Hi Kathy-
DeleteWe mostly use Rollease's traversing clutch. We make a lot of shades, so we buy components and assemble them ourselves. Designers' Resource Group in Lodi NJ is a Rollease distributor and I live close enough that I can usually pick up the components at wholesale when I'm in the area and eliminate shipping charges. It's a fraction of the cost that way.
Rowley Company also sells components for this traversing clutch system in smaller quantities.
But if you don't use them often, you might find yourself climbing the learning curve every time!- and might be better off buying your clutches pre-assembled. From Rollease, you can get the traversing clutch from their Expressly Yours program.
Other clutch systems include a variety of offerings from Dofix, Rowley, Safe-T-Shade, and Textol, as well as other Rollease systems.. You can buy most of these either pre-assembled or as kits.
I have in my workroom kits for ALL of these systems so I can gain experience with the unfamiliar ones, but I'm afraid now they'll have to wait until after the holiday rush for me to have time to experiment.
We've been assembling so many Rollease traversing clutches for so long now that we can do them very quickly, and have experienced every conceivable glitch so troubleshooting is straightforward.
Factors influencing which system to use:
Aesthetics- if you can see it from the outside;
Available mounting depth- some need quite large boards or headrails and others are very compact;
Weight- some have weight and size restrictions;
Ease of assembly;
Installer's aptitude;
Cost, including shipping charges;
Need for special tools or equipment.
I hope this helps!
Hi Deb,
ReplyDeleteAnother dilemma...I am working with a very "stretchy" linen. When I hold the fabric up, if I'm not holding it completely straight across the top, then all patterns are askew. I'm worried it's going to droop in certain areas or the patterns will not be in a straight line. Is there something I can use to stabilize the fabric before making it into a roman shade...maybe a weight bar will help solve the problem, too?
Oh, yuck! that's awful. There IS a fusible fabric stabilizer available from Rowley, and while it will add some bulk to the fabric, it's a nice bulk, and it also will add stability. I'd recommend trying it. They sell it in small rolls so it's not too bad to buy the minimum. It'll eventually come in handy for other projects- I always keep it in stock. You just have to be super careful not to get a little crease in it as you iron it on. Also be sure you don't shift the pattern around as you iron the linen..
DeleteIf you don't want to use that, then I would try ironing the linen out on the table so the pattern and grain are straight, add interlining and then lining, carefully ironing each layer as you add it, stab-pin it to the table, then baste it really well all over, before continuing with fabrication. Keep the tension on the long basting stitches loose enough to not cause take-up and shrinkage. The reason for interlining is, it gives a soft surface for the linen to "marry" to. If you can't interline the shade, then do the same thing using napped sateen instead.
Hi Debb,
ReplyDeleteI have someone wanting London shades with a coordinating fabric as the pleat. These will be raised and lowered, not stationary. Is there a way to keep the shade looking neat at the bottom (i.e. pleat remains together) when it's lowered? Is it just a matter of stitching the pleat together at the bottom hem?
Thanks!
Hi Katherine- honestly I've never had to deal with that issue. Maybe I would tack the permanent pleats- the extra ones below the weight bar. But I'm not sure I'd do anything with the pleat in the main part of the shade. Maybe a little tack partway in, not right at the crease of the pleat? Personally I don't think I'd like the pleat to be fully closed- why have the contrast if it's not going to show? You can try tacking them different ways with a tag gun, and see how they work, and see if the client likes them that way, then take out the tags when you decide which way to go. I'm sorry I don't have anything more helpful to say about this! I've never done it myself. Good luck, let me know what the decision is!
ReplyDeleteThanks for all of your help!!! Do you usually keep them open at the bottom? Aren't they alot wider because the pleat opens up completely?
ReplyDeleteKatherine, go to the topic index on the left side of the blog, and scroll down to London Shades- there are a lot of photos there- all different sizes and shapes of London shades- some in the workroom, some after installation. That'll give you a feel for what my London shades look like! I have never tacked the pleats closed. The installer or decorator dresses them. If the fabric trains well, the pleats shouldn't need a whole lot of dressing every time they're lowered and raised.
ReplyDeleteHi Deb,
ReplyDeleteWhat type of wood do you use for cornices? I have one that will be about 95" long and need something lightweight? Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Kathy
Hi Kathy- well, actually I don't make actual wood cornices myself; sometimes I make something sort-of cornice-like, like soft cornices, which are made with buckram or chipboard. I have used firmaflex from Rowley Co in the past and recommend it for lightweight cornices. Rowley's website has info and videos and instructions on how to use it. The only reason I don't make wood cornices is- I have a friend who makes great cornices whereas I'm just not that good at it, so I sub them out!
DeleteHi Deb!
ReplyDeleteI love looking at your awesome work and am in awe of your talent! I'm hoping you can help me figure out ring placement on a flat roman shade with ribs. I want to pleat to pattern with the safety standards in mind, but the vertical repeat is just a bit too small I think. What's the minimum space that will stack well on a flat Roman shade when using the safe t shade's ring locks? My test piece pleated to pattern will have the ring spacing just under 5 1/2" apart. It's a polyester and poly/acrylic fabric that has knit backed with 2 layers of lining - Apollo dimout and napped sateen. See the fabric here: http://www.norbarfabrics.com/Product/Detail/DANDY!EBONY%20175?type=FAB
As you can see, it would look best if it was pleated to pattern. Would it be best to skip the ring locks and use the encased lift cord shroud tube? I don't want the shade to stack up odd and not fold correctly. Does that make sense? Thank so much for your help in advance!!
Joy
Thank you, Joy!
ReplyDeleteI looked at the fabric and absolutely yes that should be pleated to pattern! I understand your concern about 5.5" spacing with Apollo and Sateen linings. Ring locks will reduce the stacking possible; there are two rings locks: the original ones and the "short stack" but even short stack will add up. I'm concerned about mesh tube or encased cord tape with the bulk of the 3 fabrics; the folds might drag and not raise nicely. Ladder tape with rings can work- just don't worry about the spacing of the ladders- leave some ease if necessary in between rings.
Or, here is another thought. Pleat to EVERY OTHER pattern: 5.5 x 3 = 16.5 divided by 2 is 8.25" spacing. If your shade is long, the bigger spacing will reduce the bulkiness of the folds. I've done that sort of thing often. I'm sure I've posted photos but I'd have to look for them.
If it were me, and assuming the shade is not very short, that's the direction I'd go in: 8.25" spacing for every other pleat to match. It's a great look.
Please let me know if you have more questions. My email is in the contact information if that's easier than using the comments.
I hope to hear from you to find out how this turns out!
Great info! Thank you so much for your help today! After spending lots of time playing with placement, the designer and I finally settled on one that'll work and make the shade look good when raised and lowered. Thank you again!!
DeleteJoy I hope you'll post a picture when it's done in one of the group thread so we can see what you decided on. Good luck!
DeleteThanks Deb! Hopefully it'll turn out like I'm planning. Appreciate your help!
DeleteHi Deb,
ReplyDeleteI enjoyed your class on Shade Efficiency at the CWC earlier this year! I have a few questions for you. For Inside Mount shades (hobbled), what deductions (if any) do you take for the mount board and shade itself? When making Hobbled shades, do you prefer using the encased lift cord tape or twill tape/rings/ring locks? Lastly, do you use stop brackets? I am doing an IM blackout, hobbled shade (70x70) using the Rollease Traversing system. Thank you for your help!
thanks, Marlis!
DeleteTo answer your questions:
On most shades I take no deduction on the fabric and 1/4" on the board. I prefer twill tape, rings, and ring locks, though right now I'm making some with ladder tape and rings to keep the stack tight- I'll do s blog post about these. I do use shade stops. Good luck with your project. Let me know how it turns out!
Thank you so much for your guidance and I will!
ReplyDeleteDilemma!!! I made 13 foot valance for a customer and it's actually 2 very wide curved (at the bottom) pieces meeting in the middle with a pleat. I want each of the curved pieces to lay flat but there's a slight "swag" on each side. Is there some sort of stabilizer I can use to that it hangs completely flat?
ReplyDeleteThanks!
Kathy
That's a common issue, Kathy. Here are a few ideas. I sometimes make this sort of treatment as a soft cornice, with Skirtex (wide buckram) in the face sections. Or if there is bulk on the board at the pleat, sometimes building up the edge of the board between the pleats will take away some of that "swag" effect. If you lined with blackout, possibly you could slip a slat or rib in to keep it rigid, though I'm not sure if that would negatively impact the curve. I hope this gives you some ideas to try!
DeleteI am interested in attempting a Catherine valance but either with a rod pocket or board mounted. I am finding difficulty in accessing a pattern as most I see are on rings. Is there any pattern you can direct me to?
ReplyDeleteHi there Unknown! You can adapt the Catherine to mount on a board. I don't think a rod pocket would work. Just extend the top seam allowance up a bit so you have some fabric to staple onto a board. I've done it! I don't remember the exact details of the modification, but you can do a mockup out of inexpensive lining and experiment- that's what I did. The Catherine valance is one of my all-time favorite top treatments. If you do it, please let me know how it turned out, ok?
ReplyDeleteHi Deb,
ReplyDeleteYour work is divine. I enjoy seeing all your beautiful creations!
Do you have a recommended method of designing a blackout Roman shade to keep the light from peeking in at the sides? I am planning an outside mount, but can't envision a design that will hug the window trim enough to keep the streetlights from coming through.
Thanks,
Susie
Thanks so much Susie! Check out my blog post from Feb 10. To get the shade closer to the window, I used a reverse mount on an RBS clutch lift mounted under a board with a valance over it. If you need more info then email me at stitchlore@gmail.com and we can discuss it further. Are you a diy sewer or a workroom?- that'll help me know where to direct you for the supplies you'd need.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much! I am a home sewer with family members who sleep only with complete darkness. Until now we used curtains, but I was hoping for something more stylish in the next house! I will take a look at Rowley, I think I can purchase at retail through them, unless you know of another supplier? Thanks again.
DeleteHi Deb,
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for taking the time to educate us with your blog. I have found it to be very helpful! I have made many Roman Shades in my first year as a workroom, but I have not found a method of tying/sewing rings that I like. My rings always look messy. Your rings look very tidy in the pictures. I think I've read just about all your posts, but I don't see where you describe your method for sewing on rings. Please share.
Hi Dana-
DeleteI'm so glad you've found the blog to be helpful. You're in business a year! Congratulations! Are you aware of the many resources available for us workrooms such as Facebook workroom groups and various organizations? I'd be happy to send you a list of networking and educational resources you should check out. Re: ring sewing. Actually just yesterday I was teaching a full-day seminar on roman shades in Massachusetts, and spent a lot of time demonstrating how I sew rings. I do have a couple of videos I've made for a webinar but they're not on the blog or online anywere, so I told the WCAA members at the seminar that I'd find a way to post them as soon as I can. You can keep an eye out here on the blog, or email me at stitchlore@gmail.com and I'll notify you when I get them up. Also if you email me I'll respond with a list of the resources I mentioned, if you're not involved with them yet. Thanks again for the kind words about the blog!
Do you have a standard hem depth for relaxed roman shades that have trim? I saw your note about adding 24 inches to the finished length - unfortunately I don't think I bought enough fabric for that...hoping I can still make it work depending on the hem depth. Thanks for any guidance! Love your work!
ReplyDeleteDo you have a standard hem depth for relaxed roman shades that have trim? I saw your note about adding 24 inches to the finished length - unfortunately I don't think I bought enough fabric for that...hoping I can still make it work depending on the hem depth. Thanks for any guidance! Love your work!
ReplyDeleteMy hem depth usually is half the ring spacing- for 8" spacing I usually make a 4" hem. With trim, I add the width of the trim to the hem. I don't know where the note is about adding 24". Is that for relaxed romans?
ReplyDeleteYes - it's for a relaxed roman- I read it in this posting-
DeletehudsondebbDecember 8, 2013 at 9:34 AM
For relaxed Romans, I add 24" to the finished length so there are extra folds when the shade is down. Start the bottom rings about 5" from the bottom. If the rings are spaced the standard 6" apart, the trim will show when you raise the shade.
I'm just wondering if I somehow reduce my hem depth, I might add some length but then I still want my trim to be visible. I'm kicking myself for not buying extra fabric. . .
Oh I totally missed that it's a relaxed! Sorry. Well, you can add extra in any increment of your ring spacing. 24" gives 4 extra folds at 6" spacing. You can even get away with zero extra folds and it'll be flat when down. One extra fold is ok if you have 6" extra to spare. The key to the trim showing is to start the rings up half the ring spacing plus a couple of inches. Hope that gives you some helpful guidelines. (I'm on vacation so I don't have any resources with me, just my phone....)
DeleteThanks! That helps. I want to have a bead fringe trim along the very bottom edge of the fabric. I am planning on just hand tacking it onto the fabric by only catching the main fabric so I don't get pin pricks of light in my blackout lining. I can't decide if I should do my rings 6 inches apart and go with a 3 inch hem or should I do a smaller hem that would be covered by the bead fringe? What do you typically do when adding a bead fringe? Thanks again!
DeleteYes, I'd make a smaller hem, so the bead trim will cover the sewing and that'll help keep light from coming through.
DeleteI really like your blog! I'm trying to figure out a new way to add dowels to my shades. Right now I secure them inside. I dont make pockets, since that might be too time consuming but I secure them inside the side hems. I feel like it makes the shade look a little bulky along the side hems where the dowels are inside, so I'd prefer them on the back. I don't want stiching across the shade either. I'm considering trying the iron on rib tape again. Have you used that? I had bad luck and worry it will come off. Also How do I find out more about Dofix products? I went to their site but not much info. Also what is your secret to stiching without getting pinholes? I currently have a method but I'm interesting in what yours is. Thanks!
DeleteHi! Wow that's a lot of questions! Why don't you email me at stitchlore@gmail.com for a more detailed response. re: ribs: I tack them to the interlining at the folds. I don't want to do or see any stitching, pockets, or tape. I've tried them all and like my tacking method best. Re: no pinholes: I use a method with two layers of blackout and staggered stitches; this is a big subject and the method is complicated to explain but also fool-proof. On the blog I've documented quite a few projects with these methods in the past 2 years; if you check the topic index for recent posts on "no-pinholes" and "ribs." And actually when I do no-pinholes I also automatically include ribs at the folds. I've been teaching these methods a little bit lately; if you're interested in getting a class together, email me and let me know. Dofix: I agree- the website IS NOT too helpful about extolling the myriad of possibilities with their products. Getting a Dofix changed my life. I took a full-day class with Beth Hodges 2 years ago. Are you a member of any Facebook workroom pages that you can do a search for her and find out her class schedule- I know she has at least 4 workshops lined up for the next couple of months- well worth the time and money.
DeleteI'm totally addicted to your blog! I am in the plan stage for two outside mount relaxed roman shade valances for master bedroom redo. The tutorials I found recommend the "pillowcase" lining method. In your 4/19/15 blog you mentioned you rarely used this method. That got me thinking...should I or shouldn't I.....soooo, would love to know why you normally don't use it and in what circumstance you do? Thanks so much for you time and for sharing your expertise & techniques.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Donna-
ReplyDeleteRe: pillowcasing- to get the exact size it’s not as easy as making it on the table- for me, at least! There’s nothing at all wrong with that method. Also I like to use the same method all the time and adapt as necessary- consistency ehhances efficiency.
Glad you like the blog! Yes I too would like to turn it into a book 😁
Thanks for your quick reply. And I agree regarding consistency. Your handwork is the best I've ever seen! Be sure and let me know if you do write a book!
ReplyDeleteHi Deb hope you had wonderful Christmas!
ReplyDeleteI have reached the pleat stage on my shade valance & need a little more advice. [london [relaxed] no long "tails", 56 3/4" W x 43 L ;O/S mount w/2 1/2" returns; fabric is cotton blend with embroidered 13" V/H repeat; lined with light weight lining;13" center pleat-for pattern match at pleat; here is fabric: https://www.fabricut.com/fabric/5129901/catla-branch/parchment].
On to my questions:
1- do you take the lining all the way to the bottom face fabric edge prior to hemming? I've pinned the hem, but the lining + embroidered fabric in the double fold adds a little too much bulk in the hem. So am thinking should I shorten the lining so that it drops to the last fold of the hem?
2- is there a "standard" formula for calculating pleats in a non-functional relaxed/london shade valance? And is pleating to pattern as important as it is with standard functional shade?
Thanks for any insight/help you can offer. I'm not a sewing novice but this fabric has been a challenge to say the least! LOL
Donna
Hi Donna- yes I had a lovely Christmas and I hope you did too!
DeleteRe: the first question about your London shade/valance: yes I always take the lining to the bottom- because I want the light to come through consistently. But that might not be that important since there are all the folds covering each other up. If it's too bulky with the embroidery, one alternative is to just do a single hem instead of double.
Re: ring spacing- I think generally most peoples' default is 6" spacing, but you could do up to 7" for a London shade. (Flat romans can have bigger spacing, up to 8.25") With your 13" repeat you could do 6.5" and get every other pleat to match. And no it's not THAT important for a busy embroidered pattern, but since 6.5" is within range, it's easy to achieve, so I would go ahead and just do it that way.
One thing I want to mention. You asked awhile ago about pillowcasing. You can dress a stationary London shade so that the back isn't seen on the tails, but when they are operable, it takes some fussing every time and and possibly the back MIGHT be seen, so sometimes I self-line the sides (technically it's just a really deep side hem), so that if you see the back, you'll see face fabric. Does this make sense?
Thanks so much for the quick reply Deb especially during this busy season! You are a real dear.
ReplyDeleteI will leave the lining as is, as your method would definitely give a more "finished/professional" look! [gotta stop reading those "how to make london shades in 30 mins sites..lol]
As to the ring spacing I will begin playing with the 6.5 -7" variances.
Thanks, great tip regarding the pillow-casing vs laying in side hems on operable shades! Thanks.
One more question, your 2010 blog "experimenting" covered methods to shorten tails. And, you mentioned using a "sharp taper on the sides" to adjust the tail length. This sound silly, but did you taper toward the center pleat or toward the side hems? I'm trying to create similar blind as the one in you blog "double relaxed" photo 1/14 [solid fabric w/fringe trim on double window]
If you were not so far away, I'd come sit and just watch you work! I've only seen your caliber of work from one other professional,sadly he is no longer with us.
Thanks again for you help. Warm Regards, Donna
Morning Deb hope your staying warm! I'm having a hard time here in southwest Tn cause we just "ain't" use to this!
ReplyDeleteI've been religiously reading your blog most recently your "Dog-Ear Relaxed Shades Comparison" [3/28/12]. I gathered from this blog that the wider the shade the further in from the side hems the lift lines/rings are placed.
Not being sure of my assumption has prompted my question:
How do you determine how far "in" from side hems to place the lift line/rings on relaxed roman/London shades. And, does the presence or absence of "pleats" and returns factor into your decision?
Sorry but must sneak in question #2:
In "I got to use my own Relaxed Roman class material" 1/15/17; you mentioned using a weight bar in this relaxed roman. Oh dear, now I'm confused, I thought weight bars were only used down the length of hobbled roman shades! Was this bar placed at the top of the shade?
Thanks again and stay warm.....
Happy New Year
Donna
Hi Doona- happy new year!
ReplyDeleteLondon or dog-ear column placement is usually approximately 6" in. For a tiny window, maybe 5", for a wide window maybe 7-8". Do a sketch to scale to see what looks best to you. Whether there is a pleat or not, it's all about pleasing proportions.
Every shade gets a weight bar at the bottom. I think you're thinking of ribs for hobbled shades. For relaxed or London shades, the weight bar is covered in a fabric tube and tacked externally to allow the fabric to droop. You can see the weight bars tacked on any photo on my blog of the backs of relaxed or Londons.
Thanks so much Deb. The sketch to scale idea is great and one I will definitely follow!
ReplyDeleteDid not realize about the weight bars in relaxed /london's, back to your blog to take a harder look at picts. lol.
Deb I just thought of something regarding weight bars. I'm making relaxed pleated london shade valances not operating shades. So that being said, I still need a weight bar to make them hang correctly, right? thanks Donna
ReplyDeleteYes you’re absolutely right. The weight bar keeps the sides from pulling in.
DeleteOH Deb! I need help! I'm 90% finished with 2 OM Relaxed London valances [each w/1 center pleat & weight bars]; one on 53" wide dbl window & the other a 76" wide triple window. My problem is that the swag portion of the 76" window hangs about 1" lower than the swag on the 53" window. The rings are set in @8" from side hem with 6" vertical spacing on both windows. I've tried everything I can think of to remedy the problem nothing seems to work. Is it be the difference in the window/valance widths that is causing this difference in swag length or have I done something wrong?
ReplyDeleteAny input will be most appreciated!!
A faithful reader of your blog.
Donna
Hi Donna! I'm sorry you're having this problem- it's a common issue with wide relaxed or London valances or shades. The wider the swaggy section, the more it will droop, so, yes, it's the difference in the widths that is creating the difference in the droop. It's not hard to modify the larger one to shorten up the droop. You will need to slightly reduce the width of the fabric in the center portion of the wider window, at the permanent folds where the rings are tied up. I've actually taken stitches to cinch up the fabric, but you could also use a tag gun. Experiment with safety pins and scrunch some fabric up on each side and re-measure the centers. Keep adjusting til you get the center the length you want it. I've done this myself when I have had relaxed or London shades of different widths. Try this and let me know how it turns out. You can reply here, or email me at hudsondebb@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteGood luck!
Had not thought of reducing width! You are such a dear, thank you! Am going to give it a try.
ReplyDeleteRegards
Donna
It worked!!!!!! Thanks so much Deb you have been a headache saver for sure! Kindest Regards Donna
ReplyDeleteOh yay, I’m glad to hear that, Donna!
DeleteHello again Deb. Hope you had a nice Easter.
ReplyDeleteSince my 1st venture into London shade valances came out so well [thanks to your help!] I'm going for 3 more of the same style Valances! I'm looking at some sheer fabrics very similar to the fabric used in your blog "Re-purposing" [11/7/2013].
The windows are street facing bedroom/bath windows with 1" inside mount slat blinds. The valances will be hung just below crown molding so the hems will end just south of the top of the blinds. So I'm thinking they might need lining/interlining to help hide the tops of the blinds. With that in mind, would love your thoughts on the best type of lining to use with such an open/loose weave fabric.
As I've never worked with loosely woven sheer fabric before, how difficult is this type of fabric to work with? Any warnings or pointers on working with this type of fabric?
Regards
Donna
Hi Donna- to line a fabric like that, I'd use regular cotton drapery lining, maybe in ivory? My biggest tip for working with sheers for shades is: hand-sew the hems. I sometimes use a fusible product or an adhesive tape, but never with a sheer. Hand-sewing with either silimide thread or a hand-quilting thread is the way to go. Try to work with the grain of the fabric as much as possible; pull a thread to get the straight of grain. Reduce the stress on sheer fabric by letting the lining take the stress of the ring stitch- after you take a stitch through all layers to sew on the ring, use the lining for securing the knot. Be careful with steam- some sheers shrink or pucker with steam, so test first. Those are some of my rules for working with sheers. If you have any other questions, you can email me at stitchlore@gmail.com. Good luck! Let me know how the shades come out.
DeleteAs always, thanks for the tips/advice. I'll probably be back with more questions LOL.
ReplyDeleteRegards
Donna
Hi Deb, I posted a few days ago on an older post with a few questions but realizing now I likely should have posted here. I am making a wide triple swag relaxed roman shade for a window that is 70 in wide. I want the finished shade width to be 76", as this will be an outside mount. I will be adding pleats (2 pleats into the face fabric at the center lifts) to give the swags a little extra fabric to swoop. My question is... Do I add the pleats into my blackout lining also? or do I keep the dimensions of lining without the pleats to ensure my desired finished shade width stays at 76"? Hope this makes sense and you can help me out with this planning before I start the construction.
ReplyDeleteThanks,
Renee Fisher
Hi Renee-
ReplyDeletethat's weird, I did write a reply to your inquiry but somehow it didn't get published- I'm sorry! You asked about weight bars- yes you do need a weight bar- without one, the sides will slump inward. Three sections is perfect for that size window. The 2" you're putting into the pleats will add a nice droop- I think that sounds just right. And yes, you layer the blackout with the face fabric and pleat them both together. Back to the pleats: if the pleats at the two inner lift lines get 2", then use 1" for half-pleats for the two side lift lines. That will allow the droop silhouette to be symmetrical. I hope this helps. If you want, please feel free to email me at stitchlore@gmail.com for any further info. I hope your project goes well- good luck! Let me know how it turns out! And sorry my first reply didn't show up- I don't know what happened to it.
Thank you so much for this info Debb. I didn’t even consider the half pleat on the outer lifts.
ReplyDeleteHello Deb. I'm working on London Shade Valances [outside mount] for 3 - 38 1/2" wide windows. I'm planning on 6" pleats set in about 4" +/-. After figuring dust board length [38 1/2], returns, pleats & hems I'm going to need a fabric width of about 61" per window. My fabric is 54" and I've "played with" both the pleat & hem measurements to no avail. Appears my only options are to add the approx 7" per side in needed width by seams in the pleats or by railroading. The fabric is a semi-sheer solid [using lightweight lining] with a "woven in stripe" pattern that is only noticeable closeup. Do you see any problem with railroading fabric in this situation?
ReplyDeleteThanks in advance for you help
Donna
Hi Debb,
ReplyDeleteJust wondering your thoughts on the best fullness for double pinch pleated drapes? My windows are 47 wide by 100 long. The room has two windows on the same wall. It is a baby nursery so the drapes will be with a medium weight fabric, blackout lined, and kept mostly closed. Is 2.5 too full? Should I go with 2.25 or 2 or something less? Thanks in advance for any advice!
Hi Katherine- this is one of the comments I never knew had been made, so I'm sorry I hadn't answered! If you are making two-finger pleats, I'd go with 2x or 2.25x fullness. at 2.5x you'll use about 6" for each pleat, and I think that amount is better for a three-finger pleat, and too much for a two-finger pleat. Cut down the fullness to 2x - 2.25x and you'll have about 4" or 5" for your two-finger pleat.
DeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteJust wondering if you sew your side seams for drapery panels by hand or if you use a blind stitch hem on the sides? My blind hem stitch would just be by regular sewing machine as I don't have an industrial hemmer. My panel is blackout lined but not interlined if that makes a difference. I used to do the pillowcase method but I am worried about light coming through the edges that don't have the blackout fabric behind them. Thanks for any guidance!
Hi there- I sometimes hand-sew and sometimes machine blind-stitch. It depends on the fabric, and the budget- hand-sewing costs more than machine! The thing to remember about blackout it, every stitch will show light through. For that reason I often use a fusible or adhesive product for side hems on blackout draperies. Are you a workroom? Do you have accounts with suppliers? I think anyone can order from the Rowley Co website- they carry M-tape which is good for side hems. Also called Millennium Tape. Another good one is Jewel Tape, from Dondar Designs; but it jight be necessary to have a trade account. Let me know how it goes!
ReplyDeleteI ended up doing the blind hem stitch and you're right - the light shows through at side the hem. Oh well! I'm just a mom sewing blackout nursery drapes but I will look into adhesive tapes for future projects. One other issue I've run into is the overlap. I allotted 3.5 inches in overlap for each panel. I've used drapery hooks and rings behind my pinch pleats but do I put a drapery hook and ring close to the edge of each overlap? If I do that then they don't fully overlap at the top because the rings meet each other. If I leave them with nothing they seem to droop down on the edges. I haven't been able to find any guidance online or in sewing books on what to do there? Thanks!!
ReplyDeleteHi Deb,
ReplyDeleteI am working on a navy Roman using navy thread for the rings and I’m always troubled by seeing the dark thread against white lining on the back of the shade. Do you think I could add some pigment to the glue to make the glue opaque and therefore disguise the thread? Or use paint as glue?
Thanks for your great blog!
Kelley
Hi Deborah- when you do a relaxed shade without a valance for a door do you still attach the lift system to a mounting board even if you’re not doing a valance? I can’t imagine how a valance would look with a relaxed Roman shade on a door so I was just going to have returns to hide the lift system. Is there a reason to mount the system to a board or am I better off just attaching my shade to the lift system? Thanks! Katherine
ReplyDeleteHi Katherine! I almost never mount a shade without a board. In fact right now I can't think of a single time! I just never got into the habit. For a relaxed shade on a door, I would put it on a board, and wrap the fabric around the board returns. I myself do not like valances over relaxed shades.
Delete