All the Best, Part 2

The qualities of wool that make it luxurious are also the qualities that dictate special handling when using it for window treatments.  Wool's fluidity and drapiness make it prone to sagging and rippling, so we add internal structure to allow it to look its best.

The gridded canvas table is our most valuable workroom tool.  We ensure that the fabric is straight on grain by aligning it with the grid.  The bottom hem was calculated to be even with the top of the trim, and it was pressed and opened back up so the interlining could be layered in.

I considered options for making sure the wool did not sag below the fold line, which was even with the bottom of the trim.  Using my "best of both worlds" approach, I ran a line of Jewel adhesive tape to secure the wool and the interlining right where I wanted them.  Yes, I did consider joining the layers with a herringbone stitch.  I was still a little leery of the wool sagging below the trim, and chose the tape instead.   You'll see in a moment that the top was secured in such a way that I was confident that it would not sag.

Borrowing a technique from English curtain-making, the lining was folded up so the raw edge would be even with the raw edge of the wool, and hand-sewn into place.

Stabilizing the top edge was the key to keeping the fabric from sagging.   The interlining ends right at the board line, to reduce bulk; therefore staples won't hold it in place.  So the first step is to secure it to the lining.

A running stitch exactly at the board lines bastes the face fabric to the lining.  When the valance is stapled to the board, the layers naturally shift a bit from the "turn of cloth" but the layers shift at different rates.  They automatically grade themselves.  That's why they have to be basted exactly at the board line.  If they're secured further back, then there will be a little buckle in the layers.

 I leave the thread ends on the right side so that after the valance is stapled I can easily find the basting thread to remove it.  To keep it from loosening up or coming unstitched, I weave a bit back through the stitches.

The sides are hemmed by hand.

A variety of threads were chosen for the hand-sewing- here they are, along with the Jewel tape.

And now the valance is ready for mounting to the boards, and that will be the topic for "All the Best, Part 3," coming up later this week.

Hybrid Soft Cornice part 2- applying the microcord

On Friday I started posting about this hybrid soft cornice.  I thought it would be a three-part post, but I think I'll need to divide it into four parts!

One of my favorite features on these soft cornices is self-fabric microcording.  I thought it turned out beautifully on this valance.  You can see the purple marks made during the planning and preparation- and upon completion, we hit those marks perfectly.  They were erased after I took this picture.  So today I'll go through the process of applying the microcord on the front.

We left off here on Friday: the valance pieces had been marked, cut, joined, and pressed.

My first plan was to "baste" the welting onto the face with 3/16" adhesive Jewel tape.  I ran the tape around the bottom edge, splitting up the curves into a bunch of straight pieces.

I began sticking the microcord to the face along the lines I had drawn.  I used 1/16" microcord which is REALLY tiny.  The welting was made ahead of time, something I rarely do; I usually make it and apply it all in one step, but I did not trust that the curves would not stretch out of shape.

At the sharp turns, I clipped the welt and cut out a little wedge so the lip would lay flat.

On the curves I carefully followed the white chalk line I made during the preparation stage.  In this photo you can see the sticky tape by the glare from the lights.

However, once I began sticking the welting on, I didn't like how the tape was creating a bit of distortion, so I decided to baste the welt on by hand.  In the corners I added a couple of back-stitches so the turn would stay put.

Hand-sewing really allowed me to be precise at those sharp turns.  I could never have sewn it this precisely by machine.

 As I sewed I peeled off the sticky tape, and as I visibly saw the fabric relax, I was glad I had made the decision to  hand-baste.  It was easy to see that that it was vastly better.  I basted right on the machine stitching line.

And that's how I did stage one of the welting!  Now the valance is turned over, straightened onto the table, and lightly pressed.  From here on it will not leave this spot on the table.  The various materials will be layered in and secured- and that's a story for tomorrow!