Sunday, January 15, 2017

I got to use my own Relaxed Roman class material!

You can imagine that I was amused when my own Relaxed Roman Shade class material came in handy for a relaxed shade project of my own!  I worked with Nicole Gray of Suite Dream to address the issues with this double relaxed roman shade.
You might not be able to tell at first glance that the left and right sides are different widths.  The swoop on the right is about 1" wider than the left swoop.
Last summer I was doing research in preparation for the class I was teaching at the Custom Workroom Weekend last October, and again at the Custom Workroom Conference coming up in May.  I made dozens of samples in order to compile data on the effect of swoop width on the droop length of relaxed roman shade.

To make the droop length come out the same on both sides of this shade, I knew that I'd need to manipulate the ring placement.  To make things more complicated, there is no return on the left, except for 1" to prevent hourglassing, and a 2.5" return on the right.
Normally the wider section would droop more, so I tapered the rings outward to allow a little more droop on the smaller section.
When the shade was hung in the workroom, I could see that I had overcompensated, because the narrower side was a little longer.  (To the left of this shade you can see a grey shade that was the last in the long line of samples I made for the droop experiments!)
I experimented with different ring positions, and in the end I didn't need to re-taper all the bottom rings; I just moved the bottom-most ring over and re-tied them.
That little adjustment was all that was needed.
During fabrication, I kept the sections labeled to keep from getting confused.
I also labeled the weight bar since the center wasn't actually the center.
To keep the interlining from drooping inside the return, I lockstitched it to the face before hemming the sides- a technique I learned from Penny Bruce's classes on English handsewn draperies.
I also basted a lot during fabrication since the shade had to be shifted on the table because it was longer than my 60" wide table.  Here you can see the basted board line.
To avoid pinholes of light coming through the blackout layer at the ring stitches, I overlapped the widths at the center.  Underneath you can see the basting line at the face fabric seam, so I could tell where to put the rings.
I used my two-layer no-pinholes ring sewing technique.
The overlapping layer was then glued down.  You might be able to see a row of fusible adhesive- which I tried first- but without blackout lining those tapes don't always adhere securely, so I switched to tried-and-true fringe adhesive.
We had a happy customer!

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