Sleeping on it

Last night I dreamed of a way to make sheer hobbled shades without pockets.  I have numerous methods for making hobbled shades.  Mostly I use ribs without pockets, but I still sew pockets for sheer hobbled shades.  You know how things you dream seem so logical in the dream, and are clearly absurd when you wake up?  I'm not sure, but I THINK my dream method might actually be feasible and useful.  I'm going to think about it today as I work on other products, and decide whether or not it's worth an experiment.
Meantime, I made these sheer hobbled shades a few weeks ago, using one of my regular pocket methods.

 I sew the translucent twill tape on as I sew the pocket.

The pocket fold line is marked with disappearing purple pen.  I have to work quickly, before the ink disappears!

I dread sewing pockets because it's not easy to keep the fabric grain lined up.  But I have always felt that sheer shades need the pockets for stability.  This happened to be a well-behaved fabric, so the process wasn't too painful.  I didn't even have to pin the fold- which kept my arms and midriff free from pin gouges! 

After all the tapes are on, I sew on clear rings which are shrouded with clear ring locks- both from SafeTShade.  The ribs from Rowley Co are clear plastic.  

 The shade safety standards determine the maximum spacing allowed on hobbled shades, just as on flat romans: 16.9" of combined loop.  With hobbled shades, the loop includes the fabric and tape, so the row and ring spacing must be calculated to fall within that range. 

I wonder if I should see a therapist to analyze me and my dream-method for making sheer hobbled shades without the pockets?  Perhaps in a few months I'll have a whole new technique!

Pleating shades to pattern

I coordinated efforts between design and fabricating personnel to ensure that the pattern was aligned between these two treatments. 

I LOVE purple disappearing pens.  I use them to write notes to myself right on the fabric.  (Test fabric before doing this yourself to be sure the purple will disappear or can be "erased!")
Once the cornice pattern placement was determined, the shade was planned, from the top down which is sort of backwards, to me.  It was precisely plotted out on graph paper, and the specifications noted on the fabric selvedge. The cornice placement was indicated, then the shade began 3/4" below that.

I also use the pens to draw right on the table.  The rough outline of the edges of the roses was transferred to the table so that the second, slightly wider, shade would be cut in the identical way.
When fabricating shades to pattern, it is the pattern that is important, not the actual measurements.  You need to think in terms of repeats, not inches.  Especially with any embroidery, the repeat can vary slightly from one to another, so you work from point to point. 

The cut-off selvedge was also helpful for the second shade.

The shades were reverse mounted with Rollease traversing clutches.

Thanks to installer Mario Fuentes for the photos on-site.