Hobbled shade valance

Stationary shades used as valances is a hot trend right now.  To achieve the order specifications from Crosstown Shade and Glass, this shade required a different approach.

They're sometimes made just the same as a functioning shade, except without a lift system- the treatment is adjusted on-site to a chosen finished length.

They're popular on doors, so I've developed a method for door windows, to get them nice and snug to the door.

 Fixed shades using luxury fabrics such as this wool require just as much attention to detail during fabrication as a functioning shade.

 A shaped frame was built for this bay with an arched window.

I have half a dozen ways of making fixed shades, but sometimes a request requires a different approach.  This order came with exact specifications as to the depth and spacing of each fold, the bottom reveal, and the top picture area, and I realized this treatment would be best made as a mock hobbled shade, with tapes.

This 16.75" long shade required about 55" of heavily embroidered fabric to make all those folds to the specified depth.  It was interlined with black flannel to reduce pattern wash-out when the sun shines through it.

Horizontal lines denoted the back fold lines where the tapes would be sewn. 

Tapes are marked to 1.25" increments to meet the unusual order specifications.  When there is anything out of the ordinary, I avoid getting confused by making a careful sketch using the worksheet I've developed for myself, and sometimes I'll even make a mockup of a selvedge to be sure I've got it right.

The tapes are sewn at the lift areas across the width of the fabric.

It gets a little bulky under the machine arm by the time the top row is sewn!

I was happy that I could machine-sew the layered trim. 

When I mark the tapes, I use disappearing pen for the horizontal lines, except for the board line where I use pencil so that the line will not have disappeared before it's time to staple it to the board.  In this photo you can also see the backstitching at the tapes- extra security in case there's any trouble during transportation or installation so the tape won't ever come unsewn.

Mock Hobbled valance

There are so many ways to make mock hobbled valances!  I've looked back over my photo archives and discovered that if I've made 30 of these, I've made them 30 different ways.  But this one, for Paris Interiors, is my favorite method, so far.

 I've made them with flat backs, and with tapes.  I've made them with pockets and without; I've made them with ribs and without.; I've made them like actual mini-shades.   I do not like seeing the rows of stitching on the flat backs; I hate seeing pockets and ribs; and I even more don't like seeing tapes.  A pet peeve with tapes is the potential for a little hint of sagging in between the tapes.  I wanted a clean back and substantial, even folds.

I sent 4 photos to Liz with various pattern placement options.  This is the layout she chose.

I wrote all over it so I wouldn't forget.

Because the interlining created take-up and dimension, the finished length turned out a little less than the flat folded mock-up: an important point to keep in mind when the exact finished length is critical.  In this case, keeping the pattern true was of greater importance than the precise length.

After trimming the face fabric to size, the interlining was laid in, cut to the exact finished width and length, and locked in place with little catch stitches to the face.

The piece was turned face up over a half-width strip of lining, and the first fold line marked with purple pen.

This fold line was hand-sewn with a back-stitch.  I have in the past sewn these lines by machine, but I do not like having to shift the piece back and forth, smoothing and measuring every time, and worrying about take-up with the long horizontal sewing line.  Instead of shifting, smoothing, and measuring, I just left it on the table and used the time to sew by hand and keep the piece true.

The next fold was laid in place, the vertical pattern alignment checked with a straightedge against the printed grid canvas.

After doing this three times, I had a treatment ready for finishing.

At the top the layers were secured with another catch stitch.

I flipped the valance over- there were my lovely lines of backstitching.

The lining was tucked in and trimmed.

A fresh, flat piece of lining was layered over the stitched lining and tucked in.

The bottom was hand-hemmed.  As you can see, the sides remain unfinished.

At the top the layers were folded over so they would be graded as they would be over the board, then staple-basted.

Legs were cut from 1/4" hobby hardwood board, covered, and nailed at the ends, then the valance was stapled onto the board.

The raw edges of the valance ends were tucked under and hand-sewn to the covered legs.

Assessment: I'm thrilled with it!  No sloppy back.  No sagging between tapes because there are no tapes.  No machine-stitching take-up.  No shifting back and forth from machine to table with every row.
What I'll do differently:  this method took a little more time than it needed to.  The horizontal rows of stitching worked beautifully but since they're covered they didn't have to be those dainty back-stitches- the job could have been done with a larger, quicker running stitch.  I really didn't have to interlock the interlining at the top trimmed to the board edge; it could've folded over the board.   I pressed the bottom hem ahead of time and then had to adjust it because the folds turned out a little smaller than I had expected so the bottom row was too wide; next time I'll fold it in at the end.  And next time I'll use Domette for an even more substantial look.

Pleating to pattern

Pleating to pattern distinguishes the artisanal workroom from the commercial.
Whether pinch pleats or box pleats, draperies or cafe curtains, roman shades or valances, pleating to pattern takes more time and attention but yields a pleasing product.

Here are some favorite examples from our workroom.

Cafe curtain...... Possibly my all-time favorite example!

Goblet pleat drapery: every other pleat matches.

Classic French pleated draperies.

Box pleats!

Pleating to pattern is especially effective here.

Mock hobbled valances.

Hobbled shades.

Inverted pleat valances.

A little serendipity on this Sheffield- the pattern matches across the horn and scallop.

On this roman shade, every other pleat matches.

 

A small motif but a big effect when pleated to pattern.

More French pleats.....

More box pleats......

And one more set of hobbled shades.